Where Is the Eastern Spur on Thorin's Map Synonym for Last Baby

2nd-highest mount on Earth

"Chogori" redirects here. For the Korean garment, encounter Jeogori.

K2
K2 as viewed from Baltistan, August 2006
Highest bespeak
Elevation	8,610 m (28,250 ft) Ranked 2nd
Prominence	four,020 one thousand (13,190 ft)[1] Ranked 22nd
Isolation	one,316 km (818 mi)
Listing	Eight-thousanders Country high points Seven Second Summits Ultra (P1500)
Coordinates	35°52′57″N 76°30′48″E  /  35.88250°North 76.51333°E  / 35.88250; 76.51333 Coordinates: 35°52′57″North 76°xxx′48″East  /  35.88250°N 76.51333°E  / 35.88250; 76.51333 [2]
Naming
Language of name	Balti
Geography
K2 China–Pakistan border: Baltistan, Gilgit−Baltistan, Pakistan Tashkurgan, Xinjiang, China Testify map of Karakoram K2 Location of K2 relative to Gilgit−Baltistan Show map of Gilgit Baltistan K2 Location of K2 relative to Xinjiang Show map of Xinjiang K2 Location of K2 relative to Islamic republic of pakistan Show map of Pakistan K2 Location of K2 relative to Mainland china Show map of China
Countries	Islamic republic of pakistan-administered Kashmir and Red china-administered Kashmir
Parent range	Karakoram
Climbing
Kickoff rising	31 July 1954; 67 years agone  (1954-07-31) Achille Compagnoni & Lino Lacedelli
Easiest route	Abruzzi Spur

K2, at 8,611 metres (28,251 ft) above ocean level, is the 2d-highest mountain on World, after Mount Everest (at 8,849 metres (29,032 ft)).^[3] It lies in the Karakoram range, partially in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir and partially in a China-administered territory of the Kashmir region included in the Taxkorgan Tajik Democratic County of Xinjiang.^{[iv] [5] [6] [a]}

K2 likewise became popularly known as the Savage Mount after George Bell—a climber on the 1953 American expedition—told reporters, "It's a savage mountain that tries to kill y'all."^[7] Of the five highest mountains in the world, K2 is the deadliest; approximately i person dies on the mountain for every four who reach the summit.^{[seven] [8]} Too occasionally known as Mountain Godwin-Austen,^[nine] other nicknames for K2 are The King of Mountains and The Mountaineers' Mount,^[10] as well as The Mountain of Mountains later on prominent Italian climber Reinhold Messner titled his book about K2 the same.^[eleven]

The pinnacle was reached for the first time by the Italian climbers Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni, on the 1954 Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio. In January 2021, K2 became the last viii-thousander to exist summited in the winter; the mountaineering feat was accomplished by a team of Nepalese climbers, led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa.^{[12] [thirteen]}

K2 is the just 8,000+ metre peak that has never been climbed from its eastern face.^[14] Ascents have almost ever been made in July and Baronial, which are typically the warmest times of the yr; K2's more northern location makes it more susceptible to inclement and colder weather condition.^[15] The elevation has now been climbed by almost all of its ridges. Although the acme of Everest is at a college altitude, K2 is a more difficult and unsafe climb, due in office to its more inclement weather.^[16] As of February 2021^[update], merely 377 people have completed the ascent to its summit.^[17] There have been 91 deaths during attempted climbs, co-ordinate to the list maintained on the list of deaths on viii-thousanders.

Proper name

Montgomerie'southward original sketch from 1856 in which he practical the notation K2

The name K2 is derived from notation used by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of British India. Thomas Montgomerie made the showtime survey of the Karakoram from Mount Haramukh, some 210 km (130 mi) to the due south, and sketched the ii most prominent peaks, labelling them K1 and K2, where the K stands for Karakoram.^[18]

The policy of the Nifty Trigonometrical Survey was to apply local names for mountains wherever possible^[b] and K1 was institute to be known locally as Masherbrum. K2, however, appeared not to have caused a local proper name, possibly due to its remoteness. The mountain is not visible from Askole, the last hamlet to the south, or from the nearest home to the north, and is but fleetingly glimpsed from the end of the Baltoro Glacier, beyond which few local people would have ventured.^[19] The name Chogori, derived from two Balti words, chhogo ཆོ་གྷའོ་ ("big") and ri རི ' ("mountain") (چھوغوری)^[xx] has been suggested every bit a local proper noun,^[21] but evidence for its widespread use is scant. Information technology may have been a chemical compound name invented past Western explorers^[22] or merely a bemused reply to the question "What'south that chosen?"^[nineteen] It does, however, form the basis for the proper noun Qogir (simplified Chinese: 乔戈里峰; traditional Chinese: 喬戈里峰; pinyin: Qiáogēlǐ Fēng ) by which Chinese authorities officially refer to the height. Other local names have been suggested including Lamba Pahar ("Tall Mountain" in Urdu) and Dapsang, just are not widely used.^[19]

With the mountain defective a local name, the name Mount Godwin-Austen was suggested, in honour of Henry Godwin-Austen, an early on explorer of the area. While the proper name was rejected by the Royal Geographical Society,^[19] it was used on several maps and continues to be used occasionally.^{[23] [24]}

The surveyor'southward marking, K2, therefore continues to be the name by which the mount is commonly known. It is at present also used in the Balti linguistic communication, rendered every bit Kechu or Ketu ^{[22] [25]} (Balti: کے چو Urdu: کے ٹو). The Italian climber Fosco Maraini argued in his account of the ascent of Gasherbrum IV that while the proper noun of K2 owes its origin to gamble, its clipped, impersonal nature is highly appropriate for and then remote and challenging a mountain. He concluded that it was:

... but the bare bones of a name, all rock and ice and storm and abyss. It makes no attempt to audio human being. It is atoms and stars. It has the nakedness of the globe earlier the kickoff man – or of the cindered planet afterwards the last.^[26]

André Weil named K3 surfaces in mathematics partly after the dazzler of the mount K2.^[27]

Geographical setting

Map including K2 (labelled as K2 (MOUNT GODWIN AUSTEN) in upper left corner of map) (AMS, 1953)

K2 lies in the northwestern Karakoram Range. Information technology is located in the Baltistan region of Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan, and the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang, China.^[a] The Tarim sedimentary basin borders the range on the northward and the Lesser Himalayas on the south. Cook waters from glaciers, such equally those south and east of K2, feed agriculture in the valleys and contribute significantly to the regional fresh-water supply.^{[ citation needed ]}

K2 is ranked 22nd by topographic prominence, a mensurate of a mount's independent stature, because it is office of the same extended area of uplift (including the Karakoram, the Tibetan Plateau, and the Himalaya) as Mount Everest, in that it is possible to follow a path from K2 to Everest that goes no lower than 4,594 metres (15,072 ft), at the Kora La on the Nepal/China border in the Mustang Lo. Many other peaks far lower than K2 are more contained in this sense. It is, all the same, the most prominent peak within the Karakoram range.^[two]

K2 is notable for its local relief too as its full height. Information technology stands over 3,000 metres (9,840 ft) in a higher place much of the glacial valley bottoms at its base. Information technology is a consistently steep pyramid, dropping quickly in almost all directions. The north side is the steepest: there it rises over 3,200 metres (10,500 ft) above the K2 (Qogir) Glacier in only 3,000 metres (9,800 ft) of horizontal distance. In most directions, it achieves over 2,800 metres (9,200 ft) of vertical relief in less than 4,000 metres (xiii,000 ft).^[28]

A 1986 expedition led by George Wallerstein fabricated an inaccurate measurement showing that K2 was taller than Mount Everest, and therefore the tallest mount in the world.^[29] A corrected measurement was made in 1987, merely by and then the claim that K2 was the tallest mountain in the world had already made it into many news reports and reference works.^[xxx]

Height

K2's height given on maps and encyclopedias is viii,611 metres (28,251 ft). In the summer of 2014, a Pakistani-Italian expedition to K2, named "K2 60 Years Later", was organized to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the starting time ascent of K2. One of the goals of the expedition was to accurately measure the height of the mountain using satellite navigation. The height of K2 measured during this expedition was eight,609.02 metres (28,244.eight ft).^{[31] [32]}

Geology

The mountains of K2 and Broad Superlative, and the expanse west to the lower reaches of Sarpo Laggo glacier, consist of metamorphic rocks, known as the K2 Gneiss, and part of the Karakoram Metamorphic Complex.^{[33] [34]} The K2 Gneiss consists of a mixture of orthogneiss and biotite-rich paragneiss. On the south and southeast face of K2, the orthogneiss consists of a mixture of a strongly foliated plagioclase-hornblende gneiss and a biotite-hornblende-One thousand-feldspar orthogneiss, which has been intruded past garnet-mica leucogranitic dikes. In places, the paragneisses include clinopyroxene-hornblende-bearing psammites, garnet (grossular)-diopside marbles, and biotite-graphite phyllites. Most the memorial to the climbers who have died on K2, above Base of operations Camp on the south spur, thin impure marbles with quartzites and mica schists, called the Gilkey-Puchoz sequence, are interbanded inside the orthogneisses. On the due west face of Broad Meridian and south spur of K2, lamprophyre dikes, which consist of clinopyroxene and biotite-porphyritic vogesites and minettes, accept intruded the K2 gneiss. The K2 Gneiss is separated from the surrounding sedimentary and metasedimentary rocks of the surrounding Karakoram Metamorphic Complex past normal faults. For example, a mistake separates the K2 gneiss of the east face of K2 from limestones and slates comprising nearby Skyang Kangri.^{[33] [35]}

⁴⁰Ar/³⁹Ar ages of 115 to 120 million years agone obtained from and geochemical analyses of the K2 Gneiss demonstrate that it is a metamorphosed, older, Cretaceous, pre-collisional granite. The granitic precursor (protolith) to the K2 Gneiss originated as the effect of the production of large bodies of magma by a northward-dipping subduction zone along what was the continental margin of Asia at that time and their intrusion as batholiths into its lower continental crust. During the initial collision of the Asia and Indian plates, this granitic batholith was buried to depths of about 20 kilometres (12 mi) or more, highly metamorphosed, highly deformed, and partially remelted during the Eocene Menses to form gneiss. After, the K2 Gneiss was and so intruded by leucogranite dikes and finally exhumed and uplifted forth major breakback thrust faults during mail service-Miocene time. The K2 Gneiss was exposed as the entire K2-Broad Peak-Gasherbrum range experienced rapid uplift with which erosion rates have been unable to proceed pace.^{[33] [36]}

Climbing history

Early attempts

The westward face of K2 taken from the Savoia Glacier, on the 1909 expedition

The mountain was first surveyed by a British team in 1856. Team fellow member Thomas Montgomerie designated the mount "K2" for being the 2d summit of the Karakoram range. The other peaks were originally named K1, K3, K4, and K5, but were eventually renamed Masherbrum, Gasherbrum IV, Gasherbrum II, and Gasherbrum I, respectively.^[37] In 1892, Martin Conway led a British trek that reached "Concordia" on the Baltoro Glacier.^[38]

The commencement serious endeavor to climb K2 was undertaken in 1902 past Oscar Eckenstein, Aleister Crowley, Jules Jacot-Guillarmod, Heinrich Pfannl, Victor Wessely, and Guy Knowles via the Northeast Ridge. In the early on 1900s, modernistic transportation did not exist in the region: it took "fourteen days just to accomplish the foot of the mountain".^[39] Later on five serious and costly attempts, the team reached 6,525 metres (21,407 ft)^[40]—although considering the difficulty of the claiming, and the lack of modern climbing equipment or weatherproof fabrics, Crowley'due south statement that "neither man nor beast was injured" highlights the relative skill of the ascent. The failures were also attributed to sickness (Crowley was suffering the residual effects of malaria), a combination of questionable physical preparation, personality conflicts, and poor weather condition weather—of 68 days spent on K2 (at the time, the record for the longest time spent at such an altitude) only eight provided articulate weather.^[41]

The next expedition to K2, in 1909, led by Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, reached an acme of around 6,250 metres (20,510 ft) on the South East Spur, now known every bit the Abruzzi Spur (or Abruzzi Ridge). This would somewhen get role of the standard route, simply was abandoned at the time due to its steepness and difficulty. After trying and failing to observe a feasible alternative route on the West Ridge or the Due north East Ridge, the Duke declared that K2 would never be climbed, and the team switched its attending to Chogolisa, where the Duke came inside 150 metres (490 ft) of the acme before being driven back past a storm.^[42]

K2 from the due east, photographed during the 1909 expedition

The adjacent effort on K2 was not made until 1938, when the Get-go American Karakoram expedition led by Charles Houston made a reconnaissance of the mountain. They concluded that the Abruzzi Spur was the nigh practical route and reached a top of around 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) before turning back due to diminishing supplies and the threat of bad weather.^{[43] [44]}

The following year, the 1939 American Karakoram trek led past Fritz Wiessner came within 200 metres (660 ft) of the meridian but ended in disaster when Dudley Wolfe, Pasang Kikuli, Pasang Kitar, and Pintso disappeared high on the mountain.^{[45] [46]}

Charles Houston returned to K2 to lead the 1953 American expedition. The effort failed after a storm pinned down the team for 10 days at 7,800 metres (25,590 ft), during which time climber Fine art Gilkey became critically ill. A desperate retreat followed, during which Pete Schoening saved almost the unabridged team during a mass fall (known simply equally The Belay), and Gilkey was killed, either in an avalanche or in a deliberate try to avoid burdening his companions. Despite the retreat and tragic end, the expedition has been given iconic status in mountaineering history.^{[47] [48] [49]} The Gilkey Memorial was built in his memory at the mountain's foot.^[50]

Success and repeats

The 1954 Italian Karakoram expedition finally succeeded in ascending to the summit of K2 via the Abruzzi Spur on 31 July 1954. The expedition was led by Ardito Desio, and the two climbers who reached the pinnacle were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. The squad included a Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Ata-ullah, who had been a part of the 1953 American trek. Also on the expedition were Walter Bonatti and Pakistani Hunza porter Amir Mehdi, who both proved vital to the trek's success in that they carried oxygen tanks to viii,100 metres (26,600 ft) for Lacedelli and Compagnoni. The rise is controversial because Lacedelli and Compagnoni established their camp at a college elevation than originally agreed with Mehdi and Bonatti. It being also dark to ascend or descend, Mehdi and Bonatti were forced to overnight without shelter above 8,000 metres leaving the oxygen tanks behind equally requested when they descended. Bonatti and Mehdi survived, but Mehdi was hospitalised for months and had to have his toes amputated considering of frostbite. Efforts in the 1950s to suppress these facts to protect Lacedelli and Compagnoni's reputations every bit Italian national heroes were later on brought to light. It was besides revealed that the moving of the camp was deliberate, a move apparently made because Compagnoni feared beingness outshone by the younger Bonatti. Bonatti was given the blame for Mehdi's hospitalisation.^[51]

On 9 August 1977, 23 years later the Italian expedition, Ichiro Yoshizawa led the 2nd successful rising, with Ashraf Aman as the kickoff native Pakistani climber. The Japanese trek took the Abruzzi Spur and used more than 1,500 porters.^[52]

The 3rd rise of K2 was in 1978, via a new route, the long and corniced Northeast Ridge. The top of the road traversed left beyond the East Face up to avoid a vertical headwall and joined the uppermost part of the Abruzzi route. This ascent was fabricated past an American squad, led past James Whittaker; the height political party was Louis Reichardt, Jim Wickwire, John Roskelley, and Rick Ridgeway. Wickwire endured an overnight bivouac about 150 metres (490 ft) below the top, i of the highest bivouacs in history. This ascent was emotional for the American squad, equally they saw themselves equally completing a task that had been begun by the 1938 team twoscore years earlier.^[53]

Another notable Japanese ascent was that of the hard North Ridge on the Chinese side of the peak in 1982. A team from the Japan Mountaineering Association [ja] led by Isao Shinkai and Masatsugo Konishi [ja] put 3 members, Naoe Sakashita, Hiroshi Yoshino, and Yukihiro Yanagisawa, on the acme on 14 August. However Yanagisawa fell and died on the descent. Four other members of the squad accomplished the height the adjacent 24-hour interval.^[54]

The first climber to reach the summit of K2 twice was Czech climber Josef Rakoncaj. Rakoncaj was a member of the 1983 Italian expedition led by Francesco Santon, which made the second successful ascent of the North Ridge (31 July 1983). Three years later, on 5 July 1986, he reached the summit via the Abruzzi Spur (double with Broad Peak West Face solo) equally a member of Agostino da Polenza's international expedition.^[55]

The kickoff woman to summit K2 was Smoothen climber Wanda Rutkiewicz on 23 June 1986. Liliane and Maurice Barrard who had summitted afterwards that day, fell during the descent; Liliane Barrard'southward body was found on 19 July 1986 at the foot of the south face.^[56]

In 1986, two Shine expeditions summitted via two new routes, the Magic Line^[57] and the Polish Line (Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski). Piotrowski brutal to his expiry as the two were descending. This latter route has never been repeated.^{[ citation needed ]}

Thirteen climbers from several expeditions died in the 1986 K2 Disaster. Another six mountaineers died on 13 August 1995, while eleven climbers died in the 2008 K2 disaster.^{[58] [59] [ citation needed ]}

Recent attempts

2004

In 2004, the Castilian climber Carlos Soria Fontán became the oldest person e'er to summit K2, at the age of 65.^[lx]

2008

On 1 August 2008, a group of climbers went missing afterward a large slice of water ice roughshod during an avalanche, taking out the fixed ropes on part of the route; 4 climbers were rescued, but 11, including Meherban Karim from Pakistan^[61] and Ger McDonnell, the first Irish person to reach the tiptop, were confirmed dead.^[62]

2009

Despite several attempts, nobody reached the summit.^{[ citation needed ]}

2010

On six August 2010, Fredrik Ericsson, who intended to ski from the summit, joined Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the mode to the top of K2. Ericsson fell 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) and was killed. Kaltenbrunner aborted her summit attempt.^[63]

Despite several attempts, nobody reached the summit.^{[ citation needed ]}

2011

On 23 August 2011, a team of 4 climbers reached the elevation of K2 from the North side. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the showtime woman to complete all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen.^[64] Kazakhs Maxut Zhumayev and Vassiliy Pivtsov completed their eight-thousanders quest. The fourth team member was Dariusz Załuski from Poland.^[65]

2012

The year started with a Russian team aiming for a showtime wintertime ascent. The trek ended with the death of Vitaly Gorelik due to frostbite and pneumonia. The Russian team cancelled the ascent.^[66] In the summer season, K2 saw a record crowd standing on its height—28 climbers in a single day—bringing the total for the year to 30.^[67]

2013

On 28 July 2013, two New Zealanders, Marty Schmidt and his son Denali, died after an avalanche destroyed their camp. A guide had reached their military camp, but said they were nowhere to be seen and the campsite tent showed signs of having been hit by an avalanche. British climber Adrian Hayes, who was with the group, afterward posted on his Facebook page that the military camp had been wiped out.^[68]

2014

On 26 July 2014, the first team of Pakistani climbers scaled K2. There were six Pakistani and 3 Italian climbers in the trek, called K2 60 Years Later on, according to BBC. Previously, K2 had only been summitted past individual Pakistanis as part of international expeditions.^[69] Some other team, consisting of Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita, Maya Sherpa, and Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, became the get-go Nepali women to climb K2.^[70]

On 27 July 2014, Garrett Madison led a team of three American climbers and six Sherpas to meridian K2.^{[71] [72]}

On 31 July 2014, Boyan Petrov completed the first Bulgarian ascent, merely 8 days after climbing Wide Peak. Boyan is among the very few climbers with diabetes to climb above 7000 m without the employ of supplemental oxygen.^[73]

2017

On 28 July 2017, Vanessa O'Brien led an international team of 12 with Mingma Gyalje Sherpa of Dreamers Destination to the summit of K2 and became the first British and American adult female to summit K2, and the eldest woman to top K2 at the age of 52 years erstwhile.^[74] She paid tribute to Julie Tullis and Alison Hargreaves, two British women who summited K2, in 1986 and 1995 respectively, only died during their descents. Other notable summits included John Snorri Sigurjónsson and Dawa Gyalje Sherpa who joined his sister (Dawa Yangzum Sherpa), condign the second set of siblings to height K2.^[75] Both Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Fazal Ali recorded their second K2 summits.^{[ commendation needed ]}

2018

On 22 July 2018, Garrett Madison became the first American climber to reach the meridian of K2 more than than once when he led an international team of viii climbers, 9 Nepali Sherpas, iv Pakistani high altitude porters, and ii other Madison Mountaineering guides to the elevation.^{[76] [77]}

On 22 July 2018, Polish backwoodsman and mount runner Andrzej Bargiel became the get-go person to ski downwardly from acme to base camp.^[78]

2019

On 25 July 2019, Anja Blacha became the first High german woman to top K2. She climbed without the utilize of supplemental oxygen.^[79]

Winter expeditions

• 1987/1988 — Shine-Canadian-British expedition led by Andrzej Zawada from the Pakistani side, consisting of 13 Poles, 7 Canadians and 4 Brits. two March Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy established military camp 3 at 7,300 metres above body of water, followed past Roger Mear and Jean-Francois Gagnon few days later. Hurricane winds and frostbite forced the team to retreat.^[80]
• 2002/2003 — Netia K2 Polish Winter Expedition. The squad of 14 climbers was led by Krzysztof Wielicki, and included four members from Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, and Georgia. They intended to climb North Ridge. Marcin Kaczkan, Piotr Morawski and Denis Urubko established army camp IV at 7,650 metres above body of water level. The terminal rise started past Kaczkan and Urubko failed due to the devastation of the tent by harsh weather in army camp IV and Kaczkan'southward cognitive edema.^[80]
• 2011/2012 — Russian trek. Nine Russian climbers attempted K2's Abruzzi Spur route. They managed to reach 7,200 metres to a higher place sea level (Vitaly Gorelik, Valery Shamalo and Nicholas Totmyanin), merely had to retreat due to hurricane-force winds besides every bit frostbite on both of Gorelik's easily. After their descent to base campsite and an unsuccessful call for Gorelik'due south evacuation (helicopter could non reach them through the worsening weather), the climber died of pneumonia and cardiac arrest. Following the incident, the trek was chosen off.^{[80] [81]}
• 2017/2018 — Smoothen National Wintertime Expedition led past Krzysztof Wielicki, consisting of 13 climbers, started in the finish of December 2017. The squad initially attempted to summit via the south-southeastern spur (Cesen route), switching to the Abruzzi Spur after an injury on the previous road.^{[82] [83] [84] [85]} Via the Cesen/Basque road they reached up to 6300 m, while on the Abruzzi Spur route they reached upwards to 7400 one thousand. However, Denis Urubko reported that during his solo attempt he probably reached up to 7600 m.^[86]
• 2021 — Ten climbers from an international trek fabricated the beginning winter summit on sixteen Jan 2021. The group all summited together, and consisted of Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, Gelje Sherpa, Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa, Dawa Temba Sherpa, Pem Chhiri Sherpa, Kilu Pemba Sherpa, Dawa Tenjing Sherpa, and Sona Sherpa. The summiting group consisted entirely of indigenous climbers from Nepal. Nirmal Purja was the only one who reached the summit without the employ of supplemental oxygen. The elevation temperature was −40° Celsius. On the same day Spanish squad member Sergi Mingote died on the descent from Camp III; he barbarous somewhere between Camp I and Advanced Base Military camp.^{[13] [12] [87] [88] [89] [90] [91] [92] [93]} Other famous climbers who lost their lives on the same expedition include Atanas Skatov,^{[94] [95] [96]} Ali Sadpara, and John Snorri.^{[97] [98]}

Climbing routes and difficulties

At that place are a number of routes on K2, of somewhat different character, but they all share some central difficulties, the first being the extremely high altitude and resulting lack of oxygen: at that place is only one-third as much oxygen bachelor to a climber on the summit of K2 as there is at sea level.^[99] The 2d is the propensity of the mountain to experience extreme storms of several days elapsing, which have resulted in many of the deaths on the top. The third is the steep, exposed, and committing nature of all routes on the mountain, which makes retreat more difficult, particularly during a tempest. Despite many attempts the first successful winter ascents occurred only in 2021. All major climbing routes prevarication on the Pakistani side.^{[ citation needed ]} The base of operations campsite is also located on the Pakistani side.^[100]

Abruzzi Spur

The s side of K2 with the Abruzzi Spur route.

The standard road of rise, used by 75% of all climbers, is the Abruzzi Spur,^{[101] [102]} located on the Pakistani side, first attempted past Prince Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi in 1909. This is the meridian's southeast ridge, rising above the Godwin-Austen Glacier. The spur proper begins at an altitude of five,400 metres (17,700 ft), where Advanced Base of operations Camp is usually placed. The route follows an alternating series of rock ribs, snow/ice fields, and some technical stone climbing on two famous features, "Firm'south Chimney" and the "Black Pyramid." Above the Black Pyramid, dangerously exposed and hard to navigate slopes lead to the easily visible "Shoulder", and thence to the summit. The last major obstacle is a narrow couloir known as the "Clogging", which places climbers dangerously close to a wall of seracs that form an water ice cliff to the eastward of the peak. It was partly due to the collapse of one of these seracs around 2001 that no climbers reached the summit in 2002 and 2003.^[103]

On 1 August 2008, eleven climbers from several expeditions died during a series of accidents,^{[62] [104]} including several water ice falls in the Bottleneck.^{[ citation needed ]}

North Ridge

The north side of K2. The Due north Ridge is in the centre of the movie.

Almost opposite from the Abruzzi Spur is the North Ridge,^{[101] [102]} which ascends the Chinese side of the peak. It is rarely climbed, partly due to very difficult access, involving crossing the Shaksgam River, which is a hazardous undertaking.^[105] In contrast to the crowds of climbers and trekkers at the Abruzzi basecamp, usually at near ii teams are encamped below the North Ridge. This route, more than technically difficult than the Abruzzi,^{[ citation needed ]} ascends a long, steep, primarily stone ridge to high on the mountain—Camp IV, the "Hawkeye'due south Nest" at vii,900 metres (25,900 ft)—and and then crosses a dangerously slide-prone hanging glacier by a leftward climbing traverse, to reach a snow couloir which accesses the summit.^{[ citation needed ]}

Likewise the original Japanese rise, a notable ascension of the North Ridge was the one in 1990 by Greg Child, Greg Mortimer, and Steve Swenson, which was washed alpine style above Camp 2, though using some stock-still ropes already put in identify by a Japanese team.^[105]

Other routes

The routes climbed on the Northwest of the mountain. A: Westward Ridge; B: West Confront; C: Northwest Ridge; D: North Ridge; E: Northeast Ridge

Because 75% of people who climb K2 apply the Abruzzi Spur, these listed routes are rarely climbed. No one has climbed the East Face of the mountain due to the instability of the snow and ice formations on that side.^[106] Besides the East Face, the North Face has not yet been climbed either. In 2007 Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov intended to climb the K2's N Face but they were stymied past increasingly deteriorating weather condition. After finding their intended route menaced by growing avalanche danger, they traversed onto the normal N Ridge route and summited on 2 Oct 2007, making the latest summer season ascent of the pinnacle in history.^[107]

Northeast Ridge

Long and corniced, finishes on uppermost part of Abruzzi route. Ridge first crossed by a Polish expedition led by Janusz Kurczab in 1976. The squad was not able to summit due to poor weather.^[108] First climbed by Louis Reichardt and James Wickwire on 6 September 1978^[109]

West Ridge

First climbed in 1981 by a Japanese team.^[110] This route starts on the distant Negrotto Glacier and goes through unpredictable bands of stone and snowfields.^{[ citation needed ]}

Southwest Pillar or "Magic Line"

Very technical, and 2nd well-nigh enervating. Kickoff climbed in 1986 by the Smoothen-Slovak trio Piasecki-Wróż-Božik. Since then Jordi Corominas from Kingdom of spain has been the but successful climber on this route (he summitted in 2004),^[111] despite many other attempts.^{[ citation needed ]}

South Face or "Smoothen Line" or "Central Rib"

Extremely exposed, demanding, and dangerous. In July 1986, Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski summitted on this route. Piotrowski was killed while descending on the Abruzzi Spur. The route starts off the commencement part of the Southwest Pillar, and so deviates into a totally exposed, snow-covered cliff area, then through a gully known equally "The Hockey Stick", and then goes up to yet another exposed cliff-face, and the route continues through still another extremely exposed section all the way up to the betoken where the road joins with the Abruzzi Spur about 300 one thousand (1,000 ft) before the summit. Reinhold Messner called information technology a suicidal route then far, no one has repeated Kukuczka and Piotrowski's accomplishment. "The route is so avalanche-decumbent, that no 1 else has ever considered a new try."^{[112] [113]}

Northwest Confront

First ascension via this road was in 1990 by a Japanese team; this route is located on the Chinese side of the mount. This road is known for its cluttered rock and snowfields all the manner upwardly to the elevation.^[111]

Northwest Ridge

Outset climbed in 1991 by a French squad: Pierre Beghin and Christophe Turn a profit. Finishes on Due north Ridge. Second endeavor in 1995 by an American team, they reached 8100 metres the 2 Baronial before turning dorsum in deteriorating weather.^[114]

Southward-southeast spur or "Cesen route" or "Basque route"

It runs the colonnade between the Abruzzi Spur and the Polish Route. It connects with the Abruzzi Spur on the Shoulder, higher up the Blackness Pyramid and beneath the Bottleneck; since it avoids the Black Pyramid, information technology is considered safer. In 1986, Tomo Česen ascended to 8,000 m (26,000 ft) via this route. The first acme via this route was by a Basque team in 1994.^[111]

West Face

Technical difficulty at high altitude, offset climbed by a Russian team in 2007.^[115] This road is virtually entirely made upward of rock crevasses and snow-covered couloirs.^[111]

For about of its climbing history, K2 was not usually climbed with supplemental oxygen, and small-scale, relatively lightweight teams were the norm.^{[101] [102]} Even so, the 2004 season saw a nifty increment in the employ of oxygen: 28 of 47 summitteers used oxygen in that year.^[103]

Acclimatisation is essential when climbing without oxygen to avoid some degree of distance sickness.^[116] K2's summit is well in a higher place the altitude at which high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), or high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) tin occur.^[117] In mountaineering, when ascending above an distance of 8,000 metres (26,000 ft), the climber enters what is known every bit the death zone.^{[ citation needed ]}

Films

• K2 (1991), an take chances drama film adaption of Patrick Meyers' original phase play, directed past Franc Roddam and loosely based on the story of Jim Wickwire and Louis Reichardt, the first Americans to tiptop K2
• Vertical Limit (2000), an American survival thriller movie directed by Martin Campbell
• K2: Siren of the Himalayas (2012), an American documentary film directed by Dave Ohlson, that follows a group of climbers during their 2009 attempt to acme K2 on the 100-year anniversary of the Duke of Abruzzi'due south landmark K2 trek in 1909
• The Meridian (2012), a documentary moving picture about the 2008 K2 disaster, directed past Nick Ryan
• K2: The Impossible Descent (2020), a documentary film near Smoothen ski mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel's 2018 K2 climb and descent on skis, directed by Sławomir Batyra and Steven Robillard

Disasters

• 1986 K2 disaster
• 1995 K2 disaster
• 2008 K2 disaster

Passes

Windy Gap is a 6,111-meter (xx,049 ft)-loftier mountain pass 35°52′23″N 76°34′37″Eastward  /  35.87318°N 76.57692°East  / 35.87318; 76.57692 at eastward of K2, north of Broad Peak, and south of Skyang Kangri.^{[ citation needed ]}

See as well

• List of books about K2
• Concordia
• Gilgit–Baltistan
• Kangchenjunga (tertiary highest later on Everest and K2)
• Listing of deaths on eight-thousanders
• Listing of highest mountains
• List of mountains in Islamic republic of pakistan
• List of peaks by prominence
• List of tallest mountains in the Solar System
• Trans-Karakoram Tract

Notes

1. ^ ^{a b} K2 is located in Gilgit–Baltistan, a region, which along with Azad Kashmir, forms Pakistan administered Kashmir. The Kashmir region is currently the eye of a territorial dispute between Pakistan and India. Bharat maintains a territorial dispute on Islamic republic of pakistan-administered Kashmir. Too, Pakistan maintains a territorial dispute on Jammu and Kashmir, the Indian-administered role of the region.
2. ^ The nigh obvious exception to this policy was Mountain Everest, where the Tibetan name Chomolungma (Qomolongma) was probably known, but ignored in gild to pay tribute to George Everest. See Curran, pp. 29–30

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Bibliography

• Booth, Martin (2001) [2000]. A Magick Life: A Biography of Aleister Crowley (trade paperback) (Coronet ed.). London: Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN0-340-71806-4.
• Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN978-0-340-66007-2.
• McDonald, Bernadette (2007). Alliance of the Rope – The Biography of Charles Houston. The Mountaineers Books. ISBN978-0-89886-942-2.

External links

• Himalaya-Info.org folio on K2 (German language)
• How loftier is K2 actually?—Measurements in 1996 gave 8614.27±0.6 m a.m.southward.l
• Aleister Crowley'due south account of the 1902 K2 expedition
• The climbing history of K2 from the first try in 1902 until the Italian success in 1954.
• "Sample of K2 poster production including Routes and Notes" (PDF). (235 KB) From Everest-K2 Posters
• Northern Pakistan—highly detailed placemarks of towns, villages, peaks, glaciers, rivers and minor tributaries in Google Earth
• "K2". SummitPost.org.
• K2 on GeoFinder.ch

• Map of K2
• List of ascents to December 2007
• 'K2: The Killing Tiptop' Men'due south Periodical November 2008 feature
• Achille Compagnoni —Daily Telegraph obituary
• Dr Charles Houston —Daily Telegraph obituary
• k2climb.net

woodcley1939.blogspot.com

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K2

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